Learn italian in
TUSCANY
a guide
Viareggio sits on the Tuscan coast, neighbouring Pisa, La Spezia and Lucca. With a long promenade next to the sea brimming with beach clubs and bars, restaurants and bikini shops as well as miles of yellow sand and sunshine, this town is a wonderful vacation spot with a bit of something for everyone.
In the summer of 2023 I made Viareggio my home for one month, my goal was to go to Italy to practise the language. Having already experienced Italian School in the Milanese winter, I was ready to enjoy round two under the warmth of Italian summer next to the beach. My idea was to spend one month learning the language in classes in the morning and the rest of the afternoons either on the beach or exploring Tuscany. Viareggio was the perfect option.
Viareggio for Learning
I did a lot of research into many different schools across Italy until I found Centro Giacomo Puccini, Scuola Leonardo Di Vinci; I first loved the town of Viareggio and since this school was the same company as the school I had attended in Milan I was already familiar with the teaching style.
Lessons are held in the morning Monday to Friday so that you then have the afternoon and weekend to relax or explore as you please. The students are a range of age groups from children all the way up to people enjoying their retirement learning a new language, and they come from all over the world.
For accommodation there are a few options to choose from, you can stay with a family who will provide some your meals for you, and from what I heard the food is delicious, cooking traditional Italian food for a true local experience.
I stayed in a self catered shared apartment with two other girls in which I had my own room (there are cheaper options to share your room too). My apartment was a five minute walk from the school and a five minute cycle to the beach, and was modern and spacious; I was even lucky enough to have a large terrace where we could eat dinner or relax in the afternoon. The other girls in the apartment we around a similar age and also attended classes in the school.
Obviously if you are a beginner you can ask what you need in English but usually they will turn it into a learning exercise so that you can understand how you would say it in Italian.
Grammar lessons run alongside a workbook that you follow, the teacher will explain a new topic, you have the opportunity to ask questions and try some examples together and then you will also do some exercises from the book. They will usually also set homework for the next day which we usually did on the beach together.
The conversation class is an opportunity to talk in the language and is much more informal, different teachers will have different topics they think are relevant but all you will be able to make some conversations.
We had lessons that included discussions on how the language and accents change throughout the country to Italian hand gestures as well as your typical “Hi I would like to buy a ticket to the cinema…" or whatever it be.
On the other side of the road from the school there is a pastry shop that is perfect for grabbing a coffee and something sweet at the mid morning lunch break.
My all time favourite is the cornetto (croissant) usually filled with chocolate cream or custard.
You must also try the ‘Tortino Viareggio’ a beautiful creamy torte topped with almonds and icing sugar.
It was Umberto Puccinelli who started the shop after being born and raised around the wonderful sweet aromas of pastry making. Since 2001 Umberto’s children take care of business, taught under the guise of their father the ingredients are of the highest quality to ensure the flavours of times past still remain.
On the first day after a quick chat with the teacher (in Italian if you have some experience) students are then placed into their class level. The teacher will already have some idea as you will have completed a language quiz beforehand.
Then the lessons are also split into grammar and conversation with a short break in between, usually with different teachers. Mine were incredibly welcoming, friendly and knowledgeable, helping you through with patience.
Almost 100% of the time they speak in Italian language which is useful because it helps you to pick up the language faster, you are encouraged to talk also in the language even when discussing what you did at the weekend, asking what a word means, explaining that you were sick yesterday general conversation. Sounds a bit daunting at first but teachers are very patient and they will help you out, also there is always google translate to check a sentence before you say it!
Viareggio
for Rest and Play
La Spiaggia (The Beach)
Viareggio is a coastal town and one of the main reasons people visit is for the beach. It is visited by many tourists each year to enjoy some time by the ocean whilst visiting Tuscany, Florence or other neighbouring towns and cities. There are two main areas of beach in Viareggio, upon the lungomare which is close to the school or over the bridge Spiaggia della Lecciona. Alternatively there is also Marina di Pietrasanta which resides a little further away.
In Italy the beaches are typically privatised, this means that a lot of the umbrellas and sun loungers behind a beach bar or club all the way to the shore belong to a company. To use them you must pay a charge and with it you receive changing facilities and bathrooms. Luckily if you are a student at Giacomo Puccini there is a partnership with one of the ‘Bagni’. Called “Bagno Italia” which is around halfway down the lungomare promenade with beds, loungers and umbrellas. As a student in 2023 the charge was €5 for a sun lounger and umbrella or €3 for deck chair and umbrella. Or there are lower rates if you want to rent for longer periods of time and then you are able to keep your position when the beach gets more crowded over the summer period
There are areas named “spiaggia libera (free beach) ” that you can find on google maps in which you are able to pitch your umbrella and towel without a fee, however the closest one to the promenade isn’t super clean with cigarette butts everywhere and usually packed with teenagers once they are finished with school in June. Instead you can make your way to Spiaggia della Lecciona in which there is much more of an expanse of space that you can enjoy without the crowds.
For me Bagno Italia was the best option to relax with other students from the school, to do your homework together, go for a swim and sunbathe. However I did try the other beaches to because the same place for a whole month can get a bit repetitive.
Mangiare (To Eat)
Viareggio is full of wonderful places to enjoy both Italian cuisine and alternative cuisines. There is also a great range of places that you can enjoy your food too from the beach to the town to the harbour. I’ve created a small list of some of my favourites below for you to also enjoy!
Pizzeria Rizieri
Located away from the lungomare into the town, this Pizzeria you will be able to find something for everyone. Welcoming guests since 1938, Pizzeria Rizieri offers many variations of pizza cooked in a wood fired oven. They also offer many traditional tuscan dishes.
Shown at the front here is Pizza capricciosa one of my favourites. Consisting of a mix of ingredients such as mozzarella, ham, olives and artichokes
Bagno Armedea
Enjoy a little luxury and romance one evening at Bagno Armedea, with tables overlooking the beach its a real treat to watch the tuscan sunset with a Spritz, or if you are hungry indulge in a plate of pasta vongole (pasta with clams) and crisp glass of white wine alongside.
Take Away Eats with a Sunset View
It’s a must to watch the sunset from the harbour one evening.
There are a few take away options that I would recommend and then you can find a spot to enjoy the sunset over sea and the town.
La Barchina - A small white boat can be found bobbing on the harbour open day until late evening. Selling fried fish and seafood served with a wedge of lemon and side of chips, this is the perfect comfort food to take with you along the pier and find a spot to sit and look out onto the crashing waves.
Poke Time - At some point you will -dare I say it- want to eat something other than Italian food.
When that moment comes to light there is a very sweet restaurant called Poke Time not too far from the pier. The menu is super flexible, you can choose a protein, vegetables, sauces and they will make it in front of you, it’s also great if you don’t eat meat or are vegetarian. You can then take your box of deliciousness over to a nice spot and enjoy watching day turn into night over the town.
Below I have shown where I liked to sit of an evening with something tasty and enjoy looking out over Viareggio.
Apperitivo at Fanatiko
One of our favourite spots in Viareggio was definitely Fanatiko, with live music throughout the summer they keep the whole town dancing with tribute acts. It also has a great Aperitivo selection too, where you pay around €10 for your spritz and then enjoy a platter of mini pizza, cheeses and lots of other bites! Aperitivo is widely celebrated in Italy, be sure not to miss out!
Gelateria Veneta
A few minutes walk from Bagno Italia is your go to gelateria.
Gelato is such a huge part of italian culture that where ever you go in Italy, ice cream is not far away.
Fresh creamy gelato or sorbet is paired really wonderfully with an afternoon basking on the beach in Italian sunshine, so in Viareggio check out Gelateria Veneta.
There are so many great flavours to choose from, shown left is a mango sorbet with Stracciatella (a milky ice cream with chocolate chips).
My other favourites include Pistachio (pistacchio) and lemon (limone) but not together!
Bere (To drink)
Fanatiko
Bagno Eden
Drunken Sailor Irish Pub
The Red Lion Pub
Maki Maki
Il Corsaro Rosso - For those of you who like me enjoy food on a night out this place has amazing sausage sandwiches served inside the club.